What is pattern gauge and does it matter? 3 quick tips
You’ve heard of pattern gauge, but you don’t know if it’s important. Or, you made an item, ignored the little box with pattern gauge and now don’t know what went wrong? Does pattern gauge really matter? It often does! Read this article to find out the what, the why, & 3 quick tips.
It’s worth it to check and see if your pattern has a gauge and to make a pattern swatch, or gauge swatch.
What’s a pattern gauge?
A pattern will tell you what hook size & yarn size the pattern designer used to achieve that gauge. It helps you achieve the desired size product and to know how much yarn you’ll really need.
The pattern gauge tells you how many stitches per inch you should make to achieve the same result as the pattern designer. Crochet gauge is similar to the scale on a map. As in, “an inch on this map represents 25 miles on the map.” A pattern that requires certain gauge (more on that in a minute) will tell you “this many stitches = 4 inches worth of stitching”.
Why does the pattern gauge matter?
With some patterns, especially garments with a definite size, you need to follow a gauge. Otherwise you may start a sweater for you and end up with a sweater for Bonnie, your PomChiDoodle.
For sweaters, hats, dresses, whatever you crochet with a size, do the swatch! I once received an ginormous knit hat with a pom from a friend who had never considered a swatch. I have a large-ish head and the hat engulfed me.
How do I check gauge?
If the pattern has a gauge, then you need to make a “pattern swatch”. Sometimes the gauge will tell you what exact stitch to use. It will be a stitch that is used often in the pattern or is a special stitch used in the pattern. Work the recommended stitches to see if you have the same number of stitches per inch.
A pro tip is to stitch more than what is required to check to see if you have the same amount of stitches per inch as the pattern calls for. So, if the gauge says to check how many stiches in 4 inches, stitch 6 inches & then count stitches in the middle of the swatch.
They (yarn stores, craft stores) sell stitch gauges to make this easier, but you can just use your eyes and count if you don’t have one or you don’t want to blow your yarn money on a tool.
If you crochet more loosely than the designer, you’ll likely end up with a less structured garment.
If you crochet tighter, you might need more yarn to make a garment the same width and length. And, either way, you’ll need to adjust the number of stitches in each row or round to have the same size.
You may even decide to use another hook, yarn, or even another pattern that suits your stitching style better.
Why do you want to make a test swatch to try to match the gauge?
Is this just busywork or too much trouble? No! It can save a lot of time, frustration, and yarn.
I would do a test swatch also for any type item you’ve never made before. Past experience with crochet in general & other patterns that seem similar will not guarantee success with this pattern in particular. We can’t blame the designer if we ignored the gauge!
Making a pattern swatch will prevent:
➺ Sweaters designed to fit snug like a 50s pinup model, but you’re drowning in it
➺ Sweaters designed for the oversized dancer look that fit your 7 year old niece
➺ Small hats that only fit your little dog, Toto
➺ Sleeves dragging the ground
➺ Legs that are high-water
➺ You get the picture.
When does pattern gauge not matter?
Yes, there’re times it doesn’t matter. I hinted at earlier – not every pattern needs you to match a certain gauge. That’s why I said “a pattern that requires a certain gauge”.
When the designer, the pattern, tells you “gauge doesn’t matter”, you’re home free. Just follow the pattern. This is especially true for “sizeless” items, like shawls, scarves, maybe belts. You won’t need to have precise sizing.
Once you have the basic idea of how to work the pattern, you often just have to continue until the shawl or scarf is the size you want. You just need to crochet until the item is the width & length you want, then stop.
I make shawls & scarves and I often decide beforehand “how long do I want this to be?”, “how wide?”, or even “how many skeins of yarn do I want to use for this shawl?”
I often check the length of yarn in the skein before I buy it, plan to buy 3, then I mentally figure, “will that be enough to make a good size shawl or will it just end up being a skinny scarf?” I usually want to make a good size shawl and only plan on the skinny scarf situation when I know that I don’t have much yarn or I bought an “orphaned” skein somewhere.
(*Why 3 skeins? ‘Cause what am I going to do with one skein? Seriously, it’s because some yarn comes in 3 packs with matching dye lots, so I know the colors will combine.)
What’s the Verdict?
Pattern gauge can mean the difference between a good-fitting and ill-fitting garment, a successful finished project or a bunch of wasted time & yarn. So, check your pattern gauge on patterns that require it. Save yourself the trouble if the finished item doesn’t require a pattern gauge.
To see how pattern gauge affects the hook size you choose, read here.
